Having worked in a Surf Shop for many years, these are very familiar questions.

Why do I need a leash?What size leash should I get?
What is the difference between all these leashes?
How thick should my leash be?How do I attach it to my board?

The modern surfboard leash was developed in California in the early 1970’s. The first leashes were made of surgical tubing with a suction cup that was placed on the nose and a strap placed on your wrist. We figured out pretty quickly that this really wasn’t the best idea (it’s pretty hard to paddle with a leash attached to your wrist)!

Next came the bungie cord with a leather strap that attached to your ankle. This worked out much better, except that when you lost your board and the cord stretched out, the board came rocketing back at you, warp speed!

The modern leash is a greatly advanced device, a solid urethane cord, attached to a padded cuff and railsaver with swivels to prevent tangling.Leashes help keep you attached to your surfboard. Your leash allows you to fall on a wave, or bail your board when you’re in a difficult position in the impact zone. After you surface, you are then able to recover your board and get back out into the line-up. Without a leash you’re forced to swim and retrieve your board wherever it ends up. Most times, your board ends up on the beach or on the rocks. Besides the inconvenience of having to swim for your board, and the loss of time when you could be riding waves, losing your board can also be dangerous to other swimmers and surfers.

Leashes are NOT a safety device! They were designed for convenience…… words of warning……. You are in the Ocean, there is no substitute for good swimming ability. If you look at the waves and don’t feel confident to swim alone without your surfboard, DON’T GO OUT!

Another good reason to use a leash – Performance. In almost all conditions, falling off your board or losing your board is a pretty common part of any session. Your leash allows for quick recovery of your board. The quicker you get back on your board, the quicker you get back out and get another wave.Reefs are also a pretty good reason to wear a leash. Reefs are often very shallow, very sharp and dangerous. Often, the only thing that separates your flesh from razor sharp reef is your board. You really don’t want to lose your board under these circumstances. Not only will you get all torn up, but expect the same or worse for your board.

OK, you realize the value of a leash. How do you grab the right one for you? The basic formula to stick to, is to make sure that the leash is at least the length of your board. The less experience you have, the longer your leash should be. If you’re riding a 7 foot board and still learning to control it, then make sure your leash is at least a foot longer then your board. Keep in mind that most leashes are really about 6 inches longer then the sizes listed, because the manufacturers only count the length of the actual cord, not including the railsaver and strap. Be sure to ask the Staff at the Shop about the features, length and thickness before you buy. We’ve probably sold a Zillion leashes and hopefully have the right answers for your questions.

Some more thoughts on leashes:Thickness translates to strength. “Comp” leashes (competition) are very thin. This means less drag, and also much less strength. If you aren’t sure…… go stronger.Swivels are there to keep the leash from tangling. Check them out. There are hi-performance swivels and very basic swivels. Choose the best leash your can afford.Cuffs are “key”. Look at the cuff. How easy is it to get into and out of? How durable and comfortable is it? Most cuffs also contain a key pocket to keep your key with you!Rail-savers are also worth a look. Is the rail-saver detachable? How long and thick is it? The bigger and heavier duty the rail-saver is, the stronger, but also creates more drag.One more thing to remember! Now that you have a good leash, remember that when you wipe out, your board will be really close to you when you surface. Always come up to the surface with your arms or hands in front of your face. That will greatly reduce the chances that your board could hit you in the face!

One last thing……. Be responsible! If you let go of your board you’re endangering everyone else around you. You must do your best to control your equipment. Always try your best to hold on to your board. If you just let go of your board, it very likely could hit someone else and possibly injure them.Go Surfing and Have Fun!!!!

Today’s Surf Wax is a high tech version of the old candles and paraffin that was originally used on surfboards for traction starting in the 1940’s. Today’s wax is formulated to work in specific temperatures. Wax that has been made for colder water is much softer and stickier than wax made for warm water.When you travel from the colder climes to warmer (or vice-versa), you’ll find that the wax that you have on your board will very likely not perform very well on your board.

Being from New Jersey, we likely will use just about every wax type during our surf year. From January to about Mid-April, Cold water wax is definitely the rule. Beginning in April and usually lasting to about July we use Cool wax. Finally in July, the water warms enough to use warm water wax and we continue with warm usually through September. October returns us to Cool wax and by late November we’re back to Cold. Whew!When you get a new board the best waxing technique is: Put a heavy coat of base wax (tropical works just as well), up to ½ a bar, criss-crossing the wax to create beads. Then apply the appropriate temperature wax over the base. You’ll find that you’ll get better and more durable beading (bumps and beads help create traction). The wax will be more tacky and durable because of the base coat.

Epoxy Surfboards – If you own an epoxy board you’ll find that cool wax doesn’t readily stick to your board. You must first put the base wax (or tropical) down before you apply the cool. This dramatically improves the life of your wax job, and also gives you the tackiness you’re hoping for.Be sure to always keep a wax comb or scraper with you. This way you can rough up your wax if it feels too loaded up on your deck. If you encounter different temperatures you can also scrape off the wax and apply the right type.

In summary, the tip of the day is: Experiment! Wax is the best priced product in any surf shop. Buy a couple different formulas or companies. Try starting out with a good hard base on the board, and then adding softer waxes to the top.Wax is a very personal and artistic part of the surfing experience. Pay attention to the brands you like and your temperature formulas. It may mean the difference in competition, making that critical section, or getting the barrel of your life!

 

In the 1950’s Jack O’Neill was a surfer in Santa Cruz, California. In Central California the water temps rarely get above 60, and in the winter is often in the 40’s. Jack wanted to spend more time in the water and began to experiment with crude neoprene rubber. His early research has led to the high tech wetsuit designs of today.

Wetsuits are a product that we, as surfers, use to keep ourselves warm in the water. The wetsuit is constructed of neoprene (in most cases) and consists of various different construction types and styles. Whilst this article is designed to be fairly comprehensive we have tried to create it with a beginner surfer in mind.

Wetsuit Thickness

Wetsuits are categorized by thickness from 0.5mm right up to 7mm. The measurement refers to the thickness of the neoprene which represents a higher or lower degree insulation depending on the water temperature.

 

Some wetsuit manufacturers will mix the measurements with a thicker measurement on the torso and thinner on arms and or legs to provide a double measurement. An example of this would be a 3/2, this would represent 3mm on the torso and 2mm on the arms and legs.

Wetsuit Styles

Full Suit : Represents neoprene covering the whole body. Some thicker full suits might have an integrated hood to insulate the head. This style of suit would be more suitable for more frigid water temperatures.

Spring Suit / Shorty : The Shorty or Spring Suit incorporates neoprene to the just above the knee and can either have neoprene covering the whole arm finishing at the wrist or half the arm finishing just above the elbow. This style of wetsuit would most applicable in water temperature less frigid than a Full Suit.

Farmer John: The Farmer John features neoprene covering the whole leg and with a shortened sleeve covering that finishes at the shoulder. This style of wetsuit would be best suited to less frigid water temperatures.

Short John: The Short John features neoprene covering to the shoulder and to just above the knee. This style of wetsuit would be more applicable to warm water.

Vests & Shorts : For warmer waters it is possible to obtain shorts and vests made made of thin neoprene that provide either a slight amount of heat insulation or geared more to UV and rash protection.

 

Wetsuit Stitching

Wetsuits are made from different ‘body shaped’ pieces of neoprene that can be of varying thicknesses, materials and shapes. These pieces need to be put together and there are varying different methods. Here are the most common.

Blind Stitching: This the most widely used method of joining panels in the industry as it results in no exterior needle holes. The two pieces of neoprene are placed next to each other and a sewing machine with a special curved needle penetrates just deep enough into the materiel to get a fix but not create a hole all the way through. This makes for a incredibly strong and waterproof join.

Tape: In the early days of wetsuits, before blindstitching, the joining process would make holes through the neoprene. This created two clear problems, the first was a degradation in the strength of the suit as a whole and the second was to allow a lot more (cold) water to penetrate, thus compromising the suits warmth considerably. Eventually tape was introduced, which was made out of neoprene cloth that was either heat welded or glued over the stitching holes thus helping to make the suit more effective as regards to the previous points.

Glue: Around the same time that taping seems became an industry standard it was found that glue could be used to replace stitching. Glue on its own, however was found to be less durable and normally is accompanied by tape.

Overlock : This is a type of seam that creates a seamless effect on the outside yet has quite a lot of material left on the inside, which is where the seam is stitched. More uncomfortable but more waterproof. Normally taping would be applied to the inside seam.

Flatlock : This type of seam is weaker and less waterproof, it is the basic seam which involves material edges being placed next to each other and stitched in parallel. The strength and waterproof issues can be combated using glue and tape. This seam is more comfortable than the Overlock option.

Acceessories

Gloves: Covering of your extremities is important and can sometimes be imperative. Wetsuit gloves can be attained for this purpose and, similar to wetsuits, can be graded in different thicknesses depending on water temperature.

It is possible to purchase webbed gloves which may improve paddling while the general standard is the generic five finger gloves.

Boots/Booties: Standard Boots are footwear made from neoprene and are made to insulate the feet. Boots or booties can come in a varying thickness as with the suits themselves and generally feature a sole for greater traction. Reef booties are generally used for purposes of protecting your feet against reef or rocks. These tend to be thin and have a thick sole. Both types of boots and booties can come as full feet boots or split toe. The split toe model accommodates the big toe in a separate compartment to the rest of the toes. This is said to improve balance and warmth. Wetsuit socks are generally worn underneath fins or flippers to insulate feet. They will have no sole and come in varying thicknesses as with boots.

Hood: The Hood is a necessity in colder waters and helps to insulate the head from frigid waters and wind. They can come integrated into your wetsuit, attached to a thermal vest or acquired separately. Hoods can feature a built in visor to shade your eye from the sun.

Construction

Neoprene : All wetsuits are made from chemically treated neoprene and while there are many different manufacturers that incorporate more environmentally conscious treatments, the neoprene remains a constant in wetsuit construction.

Features and Characteristics

Getting into a wetsuit can be a struggle the first time you do it, this is generally because the wetsuit is dry (brand new) and wants to suck the water from your skin, and coupled with a heated shop you are looking at a struggle. Don’t despair though as this process will only get easier the more you use your suit.

Entry systems: There are three main styles of entry system, it is more of a personal preference which you use while there are some clear benefits to each. The full back zip and the ¾ back zip are with out doubt easier to get on and off while the evermore popular chest zip provides greater flexibility and warmth.

Key Loop / Pocket: A low tech feature which allows a key to be attached to either the inside of a designated zip pocket or concealed place on the suit.

Titanium Mesh Panels: In early cold water wetsuits, this featured very heavily as the panels are said to increase warmth and keep out frigid air in windy conditions. The drawback is that this are a far less flexible material and can have integrity issues along the seams.

Understanding the Jargon

Most of the world’s wetsuits are produced in the same group of factories across China and Taiwan using similar fabrics and cuts. Some manufacturers focus on warmth, some on flex and some on longevity. It is important to note that while you will be bamboozled with features and terms, those three things are what is important.

As regards to the fit of a suit, all the manufacturers are slightly different as are all bodies. After trying a few of the manufacturers you will learn which make suits closest to your body type.

Cold water Surfing is a reality for those of us living in the Northeast. We get a break late in the Summer when the water temps often reach into the 70’s. But we all wear a wetsuit most of the year. Many Surfers turn in their boards for snowboards or skis once those cold windy days start. Unfortunately they are missing often the best surf of the year!

Wetsuit technology has changed drastically in recent years, producing lighter, warmer wetsuits than ever before! Often while sitting in the line-up I often feel overheated and sweaty. That’s how warm they are! With the new equipment, Surfing for a couple of hours at a time is easy. By doing a little pre-planning you can make your Winter surfing experience a lot more enjoyable.

Picking a Wetsuit

The primary concern of most Surfers when shopping for a wetsuit is price. This is a huge mistake! Buying a suit for the Spring and Fall you can get away with a less expensive suit because the water is warmer. But in the Winter, the conditions are serious. Having the absolutely best gear you can afford is essential. To surf all Winter a hooded 5/4 is the only way to go. The wetsuit companies realize that they need to offer a mid-priced suit, so today 5mm suits can range from about $300 to $500. The difference in the suits is the quality of the rubber and the seams and taping. The warmest most flexible rubber with the best seams and taping are the way to go.

If your budget keeps you in the lesser expensive suits don’t fret…… you’ll still be able to get in the water, just more likely not as long as those in the full on gear. As always when buying a suit, try on suits from several manufacturers. We only sell the best brand name suits so quality is not an issue. The suit that fits and feels the best is the suit to buy.

If you are planning on surfing on all the best, coldest days be sure to buy 7mm boots and 7mm mittens. While the 3 finger and 5 finger gloves give you a bit more feeling with your board, you can survive much longer with the mittens

Thicker boots and gloves are more difficult to get on then their thinner brothers. A new product, called wetsox goes over your feet and your boots will never give you trouble again. Another method is to take a small amount of mixed water and dish soap and rub some just along the tops of your boots and gloves. Be sure not to get them inside or you’ll spend you session with your hands and feet sliding all over the place!

.

Tips to make your Cold Water Surfing more fun!

• Always keep your suit in a warm dry place
• Get all your gear together the night before. There’s nothing worse than getting to the beach and be missing a glove!
• Put your suit on in the warmth of your house.
• I suggest waxing your board in the house before you leave. Putting on cold wax on a cold board is no fun at all
• Always have an extra surf leash in your car
• Bring a couple of gallons of warm water with you. It’s great to pour that warm water all over you after you get out of the water
• I suggest never taking your suit off outside at the beach.
• Put a heavy towel on your seat and on the floor and leave your suit on until you get home.
• I always ride home with my suit and get in that nice hot shower. Getting your suit off in the shower is a lot more fun!
• After removing your suit carefully rinse it off, then turn it completely inside out and rinse it completely.
• Do not hang your suit by the shoulders to dry. Instead hang it over a bar or across a hanger and place it somewhere warm to dry.

Surfing in the Winter can be challenging, but the rewards are well worth it. Uncrowded days and great Surf are to be had, don’t miss those days!

“Everything you wanted to know about Surfboard Fins”

Surfboard fins are a crucial design aspect of your surfboard and its overall performance. Choosing fins that will work best for you and your surfboard depends on your size, ability, riding style and the type of surfboard boxes you have.

Glassed-On Fins

Glassed on fins are laminated directly into your surfboard. Glassed on fins are stronger, lighter and can be stiffer than removable fins. However, glassed on fins can be difficult to repair and do not offer you the versatility of removable fins.

Removable Fins

Removable fins are attached to your surfboard using fin boxes. The fins are either held in using screws or tension. In some fin systems the fins are movable within their boxes to even gain more precise placement. The fins are installed and adjusted using fin keys or a screwdriver. Side fins are different than center fins. Be sure you have installed the correct fin in the box before tightening.

Box Types & Compatibility

There are two major fin systems in use on shortboards today. Funboards and Longboards often use two/four boxes on the sides with a larger adjustable fin box in the center.

Dual Tab Fin Boxes

Dual tab fin boxes have been pioneered by FCS Fins. This is the most widely used fin system in the world. FCS recently introduced the FCS II keyless fin system. In addition to not needing tools to install, the FCS II fins can be adjusted within the box. Older FCS fins will also fit in these boxes.

Single Tab Fin Boxes

Single tab fin systems have been produced by several manufacturers, but the Futures Fin system is the other primary system in use today. Easy set screws hold the fins in place.

Dual Tab and Single tab fins are not cross-compatible!

 Choosing your Fin Size

The primary factor in determining which size fins to use in your board is your weight. Choosing the appropriate fin size is the first essential step to choosing the right fins. Once you have decided on a fin size, examine your boards Fin setup. Your board will be outfitted with 1 to 5 boxes.

Fin Size

The following chart is our recommended fin size by rider’s weight range. If you are in between sizes, consider the type or board and waves you will be riding with the particular fin setup. For example, if you are in between size M and L, you might pick M fins for your small wave board and L fins for your big wave board.

Size	Grom	XS	S	M	L	XL
Weight	Under 100	Under 120	105-155	145-195	165+	190+

 

Fin Configuration

Once you’ve decided on your fin size, it’s important to understand your board’s fin configuration. To determine your board’s configuration, examine the bottom of your surfboard near the tail. The number of fin boxes you see is the fin configuration and will range from 1-5.

Single Fin

A single fin box is most common on longboards and is the most traditional surfboard fin configuration. Turning with a single fin is limited, meaning single fins are ideal for fast, straight shot surfing. Single fins will provide stability, control, and predictability to your longboard. Longboard single fin boxes are long and allow you to move the fin forward for a looser feel, or further back for more control.

Twin Fin

Twin fins or a dual fin configuration will make your surfboard fun, playful, and maneuverable. Two fin setups are not ideal for big-wave riding and are commonly featured on shortboards to enhance their speed. Twin fins offer a skatier feel and longer, more drawn out turns.

Tri-Fin (Thruster)

Nowadays, 3 fins is the most common configuration and can be found on a variety of surfboard shapes and sizes. The two outer fins are closer to the middle of the board, angled towards the board center (“toed-in”) and can be flat on the inside in order to increase water tracking and speed.  The center fin is the closest to the tail and is symmetric on both sides for stability (see Foil for more info). Tri-fins perform well because they add stability, control, and maneuverability that beginners to pros excel on. A thruster configuration also gives you options – ride twin or single if you want!

4 Fin (Quad)

Quad fin configurations offer speed in smaller surf by channeling the water to the end of the surfboard and out the tail for acceleration.  Two fins near the rails of your surfboard will also add stability and hold in big-wave surfing.  Lastly, quad fins are great for generating drive through turns

Five Fin

Five fin configurations are not meant to be surfed with all five fins. Five fin boxes allow you to mix and match fins depending on your preference and the surf conditions. Swap from the freedom of a twin fin, to the traction of a thruster, to the speed of a quad without changing boards.

2+1 Set-up

2+1 configurations have a longboard single fin box in the middle, with 2 regular thruster side fin boxes to each side. The middle box is longer, allowing you to set your middle fin forward or back. This is an increasingly popular fin box configuration on eggs, funboards, SUPs and logs.

FIN DIMENSIONS AND GEOMETRY

The Rake, Toe, Base Length, Foil, Flex, Height, and Cant are important measurements of every surfboard fin, and should be considered when choosing your next surf fins. The rake, or sweep, is how far the front edge of a fin arcs backwards. Rake or sweep angle is a measurement that determines how far back the fin curves in relation to its base. Fins with a small rake (large offset) help propel the board, are very stable and predictable but are not ideal for making sharp fast turns. On the other hand, fins with a large rake angle and a small offset will allow your board to have a tighter turning radius, but are more “squirrelly” and playful. Toe/Splay The toe or splay of a surf fin is defined as the angle of the side fins in relation to the board’s central stringer. Side fins are typically referred to as “toed-in,” with the front of the fin angled towards the middle of the board. This causes water to pressure the outside of the fins, for increased responsiveness Base/Length The base length of the fin is the widest point of the fin, and sits flush with the board once installed. This length can affect how the board will respond to turns. Longer fin bases create trajectories for water to go past – so your surfboard will move faster. If you want to make sharp turns, however, go for a shorter fin base length. Foil Foil refers to the shape of the outside and inside faces of your fin, thinnest near the tip and thicker near the base. Foil alters the flow of water over the fin surface and has a direct impact on the performance of your fins and board. Middle fins are always symmetrical and convex on both sides (sometimes called 50/50) for even distribution and stability, while outside fins are usually convex on the outside face and flat or curved on the inside. A flat inside face creates a solid balance of control, speed, and playfulness, while a curved or concave inside face maximizes lift with minimal drag, ideal for speed generation and fluidity. Flex

The flexibility of a fin, or lack thereof, can significantly affect the way a surfboard rides. In general, a flexier fin will provide a skatier feel on more playful waves, but a stiff fin is ideal in faster more hollow waves.

It is important to note that high end fins can be both soft and stiff – they have flex patterns. Many fins now have a stiffer base for tracking and stability, with a softer tip that make it easier to break your board loose while turning.

As a rule of thumb, stiffer fins work well for all ability levels; they are forgiving, stable and predictable, creating a solid platform for progression and big wave riding alike. Soft and flexible fins are great for making fast, sharp turns and will give freesurfers a lively feel to their board, but are more difficult to control compared to stiff fins.

Height/Depth

The height (often referred to as the depth) is measured from the base of the fin to the tallest point of the fin. This measurement can change your board’s stability and ‘grip’ through turns. For surfers who desire a board that is easy to control, a taller fin will be more forgiving and handle turns in a relaxing manner. Shorter fins do not grip the water as well, but rather allow the board to be more “buttery” when turning, ideal for spin-like maneuverers on the water, for example.

Cant

Cant is the tilt of the fin in degrees, in relation to the base of your surfboard. For example, a fin that is straight up down and in the fin box has no cant (90°) and will likely make your ride faster, while anything more than 90° will increase responsiveness. In order to enhance rider-to-board connectivity and responsiveness, especially through turns, you will benefit from canted fins.  The less cant a fin has the more drive and acceleration your board will have but will also be less playful. In turn, the more cant a fin has the looser and more maneuverable your surfboard will feel.