POINTS AND BAYS
by Roger Smith surf guide with www.dawnpatrol.co.za/

Points and bays. Beachbreaks and reefs. Lefts and rights. High tide and low tide. Onshore and offshore.

There’s a big swell on the horizon, and some of it is wrapping in to roll along the coast.
Where are the best waves on offer? It’s our job to find them, and to make sure that they are surfed.

The guys are ready and waiting in anticipation. They watch us expectantly while we debate and deliberate.

Okay, it’s decided then. We go west to a bay that will probably deliver the goods, and failing that we go to “the vale”.

Fifteen minutes later we are watching the lines pealing into the bay, fanned by a warm offshore. One wouldn’t think it was mid-winter. The sun is beating down out of a cloudless sky, and it’s only 8AM.

Nope, it’s not perfect. Maybe later when the tide pushes. We move on. The road is now a gravel one sweeping through bushveld and farmlands. Good road. Down into a valley, and onto a grassy patch.
The boys pile out. Cool sounds on the radio.

Look at that! A set lines up on the point and grinds over the rock and sand bottom. Five cooking waves follow. The water’s clear and the surf is good! A flurry of excitement as the guys get the boards out. I knew we’d get waves here and we’ll only have dolphins for company. Nobody surfs here! Baggies and a top will do as it’s about 20 degrees in the water.

Our American guests from colder climes are jumping around. This is the life, amigo.

The point is grinding but that doesn’t deter Glenn from backdooring the first wave….

Louis and Roger run Dawnpatrol, a surf tour operator based in East London on South Africa’s south east coast. They and their support team move up and down the coast, surfing the best waves on offer between Jeffrey’s Bay and the Natal South Coast. Check ou www.dawnpatrol.co.za/ for more info!

Dominica is a Caribbean Island located about half way between Puerto Rico and Trinidad.

Dominica defies the Caribbean cliché on many levels. No mass tourism, no white powdery beaches, no rum-fueled pool parties. Nicknamed ‘nature island’ for a reason, the island lures largely individualists and ecoadventurers with its Boiling Lake, Champagne Reef, rainforest-shrouded volcano, sulfurous hot springs, superb diving, surfing and the Caribbean’s first long-distance hiking trail.

Airports & Airlines

Douglas Charles Airport Most flights arrive at this small airport, previously known as Melville Hall Airport. It’s near Marigot on the northeast side of the island and about a 90-minute drive from Roseau. LIAT, Winair, Hummingbird Air, Air Sunshine, Air Antilles and Seabourne Airlines provide service within the region.

Canefield Airport This tiny airport is on the west coast near Massacre about 15 minutes north of Roseau. Winair flies to St-Martin/Sint Maarten from here but other flights are mostly private planes.

There are no flights to or from North America and Europe. You need to connect in Antigua, Barbados, St-Martin/Sint Maarten, Puerto Rico, Guadeloupe or Martinique.

Dominica is not very well know as a surf destination, but if you are looking for uncrowded surf in lush tropical conditions, Dominica is worth a look. There are several known surf spots in Dominca:

Calibishie, located on the NE coast. Rock, reef bottom, very consistent on North-Northeast swells

L’anse Tortue Located south of Calibishie, it also has a rock reef bottom.

Pauga Bay Located on the East coast, this is a fickle rivermouth, that on the right swell produces a great wave!

Turd Burgers, located on the East coast, this is a beachbreak better suited to beginner Surfers.

Scott’s Head, located on the South point of the island. This is a good left on a rock reef. Only breaks on south swells.

DIGITAL IMAGE

In addition to Surfing, Dominica offers beautiful waterfalls,hiking, and great diving. The people are incredibly friendly and go out of their way to help you. When we were there, we hired a driver for $20 a day. He drove us all over the island where we met wonderful people and had an awesome time.  Although we were only there for a few days, I think it would be a great spot to return to.

A place of mystery, perfection and danger.
Home to one of the worlds most incredible left handers. G-Land is located at southern tip of Java where deap Indian Ocean swells organize on a razor sharp reef. There are three main section to the wave, Kong’s, Moneytrees and Speedies. Each with their own challenges.
Kongs is at the tip of the reef and normally the biggest section. It can roll in a little easier than Moneytrees but it’s hard sometimes to determine where the next wave with break. Moneytrees on the otherhand is a no-joke serious takeoff spot. The majority of the waves that comes through are already curling by. You just need to get on it. If you’re an experience G-Land charger then you’ll be able to read Kongs for the set waves that make Moneytrees light up. If you can pass Moneytrees you might find yourself in Launching Pads headed for Speedies. This is where most of the visitors spend clogging the lineup. Then end of the line at Chickens where the wave seems to weaken. Launching Pads and Speeds are a little less intimidating than Money Trees and Kong’s however each one is dangerous especially at low tide. Your best, if new to G-Land, is to surf at high tide. You’ll hear tons of stories of razor-reef victims Helivac’d back to Kuta for treatment for taking it on the head with G-Land’s dangerously sharp coral. It’s also a good idea to bring reef booties. They will save your feet from getting slashed on the reef while trekking out to the surf.

The Camps
There are two main camps on G-Land. Bobby’s Camp and Joyo’s Jungle Camp. Bobby’s is a little more expensive but offers a bit more accommodation’s. Joyo’s is a bit more simple and a bit futher from the waves. At both camps you’ll meet surfers from all over the world. A new flock of surfers come and go every three or four days keeping the camps pretty much booked through the season. The Season starts around Mid-March and ends Mid-November. The Best time for a more consistent swells is around July-August where you will have to deal with a packed lineup jockeying for waves. Earlier or later in the season the crowds are thinned out.

Getting There
Most people get to Grajagan via Bali. If you’re staying on Bali and looking to get off the island for a few days than G-Land might be your ticket. You can book online or at Tubes Restaurant on Poppies Lane II or Swell Restaurant on Poppies Lane I in Kuta. Your looking at a minimum of about $300 for a week. Includes travel from Bali to the camp (Getting to Bali is up to you. See Dan C’s writeup on Bali). The ride is usually long and uncomfortable. For an extra $100 bucks or so you can take a boat direct from Bali to G-Land. It will cut your time down substantially.

Definitely a Magical Place.
G-Land not only offers one of the earth perfect waves but one of the most incredible Jungles in the world. The sunsets are spectacular every night and chances are you’ll see everything from Komodo Dragons, Sumatran Tigers, Blue Temple Vipers and Ubud Monkeys. Don’t worry, Your camp huts are raised above ground to avoid any such creature hassling you through the night.

If you’re ready to trade in your average local break for a taste of the unconventional, then look no further than Morocco. Not only is the North African country flush with waves, its rich culture is a wonder to explore. The southern coast is home to several standout breaks, including the world-renowned Anchor Point at Taghazout Bay. Enjoy authentic Moroccan cuisine, take a camel ride, and score some amazing surf all in the same day. From roping point breaks to fun beach breaks, Morocco has it all.

SURF

From your balcony at Sol House you can see the famous Anchor Point, Morocco’s mecca of surfing located just fifteen minutes to the North. This right-hand point break is for intermediate to advanced surfers and has three distinct take-off spots. On a strong north-west swell, it is possible to surf from the point to inside the bay, a distance of nearly 2km.

There are also several smaller points featuring fun waves scattered north of Taghazout, including Killers and Mysteries.

Farther to the North are other types of breaks, including the punchy right-hand reef break Boilers (as seen in the short film Boiler Boys), and Tamri, a fun beach break that picks up steeper north-west swells. Tamri is 40 minutes away by vehicle.

Twenty minutes south of Tadenga is Anza, known locally as the “Trestles of Morocco,” which features lefts and rights off a point and a beach break.

Bali-Indonesia

Where: Indian Ocean

What: Perfect world class lefts that you have read about in the magazines including Padang Padang, Uluwatu, Bingin, Kuta Reefs

Why: 300+ yard perfect, hollow lefts
Cost: $800-$1200 for airfare, $5-$10 a night to stay in a luxury hotel, $3 for a good meal and a beer. $500 spending money will last you a month…you have to work hard to spend your money
Difficulty Level: Indonesia is definitely for the more advanced, seasoned surfer. A majority of the surf spots are extremely shallow and wave size is generally well overhead…Know your limits…There are plenty of other great destinations that have fun more manageable surf

What you need to go: a valid passport, immunizations (talk to you doctor about this one), reef boats are a must a most spots (bring two pairs in case you lose one), long sleeve rash guard, lots of sunscreen (try the tinted HeadHunter), a shortie wetsuit to protect you from the reef, gath helmet (recommended)
Surf Equipment: Surfboard size and shape is more of a personal choice but I recommend you bring at least two boards and you add a couple inches to your everyday board and bring a midrange gun. Ideal boards if you normally ride a shortboard between 6’2-6’4 bring a 6’6 rounded pin, a 6’10 rounded pin (optional), and a 7’2 mid range gun for the bigger stuff.

How to get there: The plane flight to Bali is the most expensive and difficult part of the trip. If Bali was close everyone from the East Coast would be on the next plane to the Spice Islands, but it’s not. Indonesia is on the exact opposite side of the world so from the East Coast you can fly either east or west. Most westbounds routes will take you through Hawaii and then Guam, whereas eastbound you will fly through Singapore. Be sure to search thoroughly for your tickets prices range from as low as $850 to as much as $2000. Check with ticketplanet.com they specialize in the Orient and the Pacific Rim. Make sure you fly into DENPASAR, Bali…Don’t let the travel agent talk you into flying into to Java and catching a commuter flight to Bali, It is not worth the money that you may save!!!

Aerial image of The Bukit, Bali, Indo

Tips:
1.Stay outside of Kuta. Kuta is where all the action is: world class nite clubs, shops, tourists, and crowds. Check out the Bukit Inn about a $1 taxi ride away from Kuta but 15-20 minutes closer to the waves in the morning during rush hour.

2. Hire a driver..the roads are crazy..driving laws don’t apply. Renting a car costs about $4 a day whereas a car with a driver runs about $6 a day

3. If you want to go to G-Land or on a boat trip to Lombok/Sumbawa DON’T BOOK THE TRIP until you get toBali. U.S. surf travel agents will tack on their premium and charge you U.S. prices, with three camps at G-Land and plenty of boats running the Lombok/Sumbawa route you can save a lot of money by waiting till you arrive in Indo to book these ventures.

4. As always respect the culture and the people. Bali is one of the most amazing and safest places in the world. Remember YOU ARE NOT IN THE UNITED STATES. Drug laws and laws against theft are extremely harsh and in some cases are punishable by death.

5. As always KNOW YOUR LIMITS!!

Check out baliwaves.com for more info and pictures!!!!

The Faroe Islands

Think of the Faroe Islands like the North Atlantic’s answer to the Pacific islands of Hawaii: a rocky archipelago sitting alone in the middle of the sea, buffeted by huge ocean swells passing by. Only, this isn’t boardies territory. The Faroes lie roughly halfway between Iceland and Denmark, a stone’s throw from the Arctic circle. Thick, full-body wetsuits are required to survive the freezing cold water. On shore, the climate is too harsh to support agriculture so the Faroese get by on a diet of mostly sheep and fish.

But it was no easy task. Faroes – the Outpost Vol. 02 documents their adventures and the challenges of surfing the huge waves that slam against the towering sea cliffs around the island.

The Outpost series is all about the search for unexpected and unusual spots in hard-to-reach and lesser-travelled corners of the globe. With a strong sense of discovery, it’s a story of the journey and culture as much as the stoke. Faroes follows Vol. 01, set in Russia’s arctic Kamchatka peninsula.

Huck spoke to writer and co-director, Ben Weiland to find out more.

How did your Outpost series come about?
When Chris Burkard and I planned the first film project to Kamchatka, Russia, we thought it would be interesting to create a series of short films about surfing and adventure in unusual, remote places. They’re places both of us are drawn to, and we loved the idea of carrying a consistent thread throughout the films.

When did the Faroes first come up on your radar? What attracted you to the islands?
Four years ago I was skimming around Google Earth when I spotted a tiny speck of islands near Iceland I had never heard of, and it turned out to be the Faroe Islands. I began looking for signs of surf, but the more I researched, the more I realised that surfing there was no easy task. The rugged landscapes and isolated location fascinated me. The place looked like it had been frozen in time for thousands of years.

How tough is it to surf the Faroes?
It is very tough. While some people think it’s crazy to surf in freezing cold water, I’d say the main surfing challenge was access. The islands are small and fragmented, walled by sea cliffs and slammed by gigantic North Atlantic storms. For us, looking for a place to surf was like scouring a maze. There were many potential spots to check, but it was time consuming and we came to a lot of dead ends. It took a lot of patience, and in the end we were blown away by the waves we found.

What’s the attraction in never-before-surfed waves?
To me it’s the idea of discovering something incredible that previously was not known. When I’m looking at a map, the unanswered questions draw me. There are a small number of breaks in the Faroes that had been surfed before, and we even heard of one Faroese resident who was a surfer, but within such a dense tangle of islands I couldn’t help but wonder what else was out there.

What’s your best memory from the trip?
While we walked along the beach at night to see if the surf was coming in, a local resident approached us in the dark and invited us into his house. He asked us to try fermented lamb meat which he had been curing for nine months in a shed behind his house. It was purple and coated in green mould. Both of us tried it, but we could barely keep it down.

Paradise on the edge of the map with Dimity Stoyle, Andy Schwartz and James Wood.

Maui, also known as the “Valley Isle,” offers many different beaches with waves suitable for all surfing skill levels. Here, all of the best breaks are reef breaks, and the varying sizes and formations of the coral make for plenty of shapely waves. There are a few available beach breaks, although they tend to be mediocre in quality compared to the reef breaks.

Maui waters are, for the most part, crystal clear, and the reefs below will provide you with plenty of marine life to check out while you’re waiting for a wave. Be sure to wear booties or reef shoes, and watch your hands in the shallower areas during paddle out. Some other hazards include sea urchins, jellyfish and tiger sharks; if you get cut by reef or sharp coral, make sure to exit the water immediately.

On the southern and western shores of Maui, the summer waves consist of long, gently rolling sets, ideal for learning how to surf. There are some beautiful beaches along the west coast resort towns of Lahaina and Kaanapali, and a lot of good surfing schools. Many of the surfing schools on Maui guarantee stand-up surfing after the first lesson, and in some of the more shallow areas, you don’t even have to know how to swim to surf! Although tricky, as long as you’re comfortable being in the water, it’s possible to catch a long, easy wave close to shore. On the south coast of Kihei, at Maalea Beach, beginners can learn to surf at Buzz’s Wharf.

There is also plenty of experienced to professional world-class surfing on Maui, especially on the north coast and in the winter. Honolua Bay on the north shore is home to a mesmerizing right-hand point break, and Hookipa is known as the best place in the world to windsurf. Peahi, also known as Jaws, is where tow-in surfing originated, which is the only way to access this enormous wave when the right north winter swell is coming in. Surfed only by experts, Jaws is one of the biggest ridable waves on the planet, and can reach up to 50 feet overhead. During a southern swell, more experienced surfers flock to the Maalaea Pipeline, arguably the fastest right-hand break in the state.

Good surfing conditions can be found on Maui year-round. The water temperature remains in the 70’s and can reach the low 80’s in September and October.

The North Shore of Maui is where you’ll find the biggest and most consistent waves. Hookipa is a great surf spot when winds are favorable with 3-4 main breaks. This Maui surf spot is for experienced surfers only. The current can be strong and there are only 2 entrances to the surf. The reef infront of most of the spots is exposed which makes it difficult to get to shore when the currents are blazing. The entrances are at either end of the beach and narrow. The waves here are good but crowded.

Another popular spot to surf is Honolua Bay. This is one of the best waves on the island though extremely fickle. Usually only breaking a handful of times in the winter, Honolua Bay can offer a really long barreling right hand wave. Again, only for advanced surfers, Honolua surf can be treacherous. The Cave is a section of the wave, which is notorious for sucking surfers under and keeping them there. Keiki Bowls, on the inside, is super shallow and fast. This is a fun part of the wave, but you don’t want to fall here. Just kicking out can leave your knuckles scraped when paddling. There are dozens of other reef breaks around the island. The few beach breaks available are usually not very good in comparison.

Honolua Bay

Honolua Bay is not only the best wave in Maui, it is one of the best in the world. The northwestern coast of Maui is riddled with bays and crags that can produce all variety of great surf during the winter months, when the North Pacific is busy churning out storm after storm. But as any surfer knows, even a single degree change in the angle of a coastline can make the difference between a good wave and a perfect wave. Honolua Bay has just that magical angle, producing a perfect right-hander that can line-up flawlessly in a series of barrel and turn sections for the better part of a quarter mile. Like most high-quality pointbreaks, Honolua Bay is broken down into sections:

Coconuts: The outermost take-off zone on the point. As to be expected, the waves will be biggest here, but the wind will also be strongest.

Outside: After hitting Coconuts, the wave begins to gather steam and form, and will stand up into a hollow wall that offers the first of multiple barrel opportunities.

Cave: The best, most popular and high-performance, section of the wave. At Cave, wave height gives way to wave thickness as swell runs down the point, offering up the opportunity for the barrel of a lifetime. This section is named after the hole in the reef that gobbles surfers and surfboards with reckless abandon during big winter swells.

Keiki Bowl: If you’ve made it through Cave on a proper set wave, you’re probably burning off the steam of a deep barrel, which will get you into the next section, Keiki Bowl. Keiki is smaller, racy, and breaks over shallow, sharp reef — a favorite of bodyboarders and groms not quite ready for graduation to the outer take-off zones.

Ho’okipa

While wind/kitesurfing and surfing don’t usually play well together, Ho’okipa Beach Park, on Maui’s north-central coast, is the exception to the rule. With an unobstructed window to the North Pacific, Ho’okipa can pump out some serious surf in the winter months — best for surfers in the early morning hours when the predominant East-Northeast trade wind has yet to flair up. Ho’okipa consists of four different spots:

Pavilions: The most easterly spot, just below the Ho’okipa Lookout. Pavilions is predominantly a right-hander and is a better choice for surfers.

Middles: Heading west from Pavilions is Middles, the main spot for surfers. The wave breaks both right and left, though the lefts handle the wind better.

H’Poko, or Point: Located on the west end of Ho’okipa Beach, Point offers up fun right-handers in the morning but becomes the sole domain of the wind/kitesurfers in the afternoon.

Lane: Just west of Ho’okipa Beach is Wana Beach, where Lane is located. You can pick off both rights and lefts but, like Point, Wana gets blown to bits in the afternoon

Kahului Harbor

Located on the north-central coast, is Kahului, Maui’s largest city and most important hub, home to the island’s main airport and largest harbor. While hardly the desolate, picturesque surf spot that hopeful Hawaiian travelers may imagine, Kahului Harbor is a worthy — and super fun (for the more experienced surfer) — place to get your feet wet. There are several good breaks inside and outside of the harbor, which all light up on a solid North swell, but the best wave is the right on the west side of the harbor. Large swells push through the wide entrance with energy refracting out of the deeper channel and crossing up with swell energy bouncing off the jetty, creating a powerful roll-in wedge over shallow water. This mini Box-like wedge is a favorite of bodyboarders and surfers adept at negotiating abrupt steps and chucking barrels. There is a left off of this same peak but it dumps into the deep water of the channel, thus not offering much. As you can imagine, Kahului Harbor is often crowded and polluted. On top of that, watch out for urchins, rocks, tricky rip currents, and the occasional shark. Despite the many obstacles, a Kahului Harbor right tube is an experience worth attempting.

Peahi (Jaws)

Where the Hana Highway bends away from the ragged sea cliffs of Maui’s north central coast, and begins winding south and east through patches of sugar cane fields on its way to Hana, sleeps the surf spot that needs no introduction. First surfed by tow-in pioneers Laird Hamilton, Buzzy Kerbox and Darrick Doerner, Peahi, or Jaws, has become a tow and paddle mecca for big wave surfers the world over. A deep-water wave, Jaws only breaks in the biggest winter swells. If you’re a visiting surfer in Maui when such a swell hits, it’s worth the trip out to bluffs overlooking Peahi for one hell of a show. As we hope you recognize, this is a kamikaze-only surf spot — watching is frightening enough!

Ma’alaea Harbor

While not the swell magnet that fellow west coast harbor break Lahaina is, Ma’alaea is one of Maui’s most famous waves. This is in part for the rifling, perfect right-hand tubes it creates on just the right South or South-West swell; in another part for the decades-long fight to preserve Ma’alaea’s existence as a world-class, albeit rare, surf spot. (Fortunately, in May of 2012, federal and state agencies ended the project that would have expanded a portion of the Ma’alaea Harbor and effectively destroyed the wave, thus ensuring Ma’alaea will remain a jewel in Hawaii’s pantheon of incredible surf breaks.) Once considered the “fastest wave on earth,” Ma’alaea has attracted brave barrel riders from within Maui and abroad for decades, thus the crowd can become as intense as the wave itself. Because of its size, the crowd, and the reef bottom, Ma’alaea is considered an expert-only spot, though there are more manageable peaks nearby during smaller South swells.

Challenges when surfing in Maui

Hawaii is the Mecca of surfing. Although Maui is not known as the center of the sport, our island has some incredible breaks. Oahu’s North Shore is the best spot for surfing good-sized waves with good shape. Maui has many downfalls when it comes to surfing, but if you learn about them, you can score good rides.

The following will explain the good and the bad of Maui surfing and how you can get the best out of your surfing experience in Hawaii. IMPORTANT: Remember safety should always be your first priority. If you doubt, don’t paddle out!

Local Tension

For visitors to Maui, localism possesses a major threat to a fun surf session. If you’re inexperienced or have a tendency to drop in on other surfers, don’t paddle out. If you get in the way of others, or keep paddling around people to the peak, don’t paddle out. If you are threatening and disrespectful, don’t paddle out. The local surfers are not happy about the last 10-15 years of surfing invasion on Maui. There aren’t enough waves on Maui for everyone to be happy. Most of the times you’ll find that everyone out in the water knows each other. This can be a problem for a new face trying to get in on the lineup.

Remedy: Bring plenty of Aloha into the water. Wait your turn, and don’t bark when someone drops in on you. Be respectful and treat people the way you’d like to be treated. Some Maui surf spots are known for antagonistic local vibes. Stay clear of these spots. There are a lot of surfing locations on Maui, which means you can usually find a break that’s less crowded and less perfect. At the more popular surf spots, bring your patience and extra time to sit and get your fill.

Crowds

If you’ve come to Maui to get away from crowds, think again. Almost all Maui residents surf in some shape or form. Some only go out once a year, others are out 3 times a day. Like anywhere, the better spots are the most congested. Honolua Bay, when it’s working, is the busiest surf break on the island. Even the smaller and lesser-known spots are known by enough people to make it cramped.

The Good Points

You’re surfing in Maui! The water is warm year round. It can get a little chilly in the winter with the wind factor, but a vest or springsuit can cure this. The ocean water here is also crystal clear. Maui water is really clean and free from pollutants. The clarity offers you a chance to even enjoy the flats between sets by watching tropical fish and vibrant reef below you. During whale season, you can see the humpbacks breaching the water and playing nearby. Many good surf spots are choke full of sea turtles, which can also be fun to see. If the right swells hit them, our reefs can produce the perfect waves. Maui is also great for surfing because it’s small enough to get to any shore in less than 3 hours. The Big Island is not so fortunate in this aspect. Having Oahu and Kauai so close by is also a major plus. Getting waves on these islands is worthwhile and not a long trip away.

Kauai clutches your senses and embraces your natural instincts for adventure and outdoor living. It lies just over 100 miles northwest of Oahu, across the Kauai Channel. It is the fourth largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago, much of which is national park.

The oldest of Hawaii’s main islands, Mother Earth has had time to out on an unbelievable show. Also known as the ‘Garden Isle’, Kauai is renowned worldwide by hikers and kayakers for its breathtakingly beautiful trails. Discover heavenly beaches and soaring cliffs, from the surf mecca of Hanalei Bay to the chasms of Waimea Canyon.

Weather in Kauai

Kauai’s climate is considered to be subtropical, notwithstanding its close proximity to the equator. The humidity and temperatures are not as severe as other tropical destinations, with the average temperature in summer being 27°C. Kauai climate remains quite consistent year round due to the refreshing trade wind that blows off the ocean.

The best times to visit Kauai are the season of summer and spring, between April and August. The autumn and winter months are generally less crowded, however this is the island’s wet season.

Getting There

Today getting to Kauai is much simpler and faster than in years past. You can get a non-stop direct to Oahu and a quick Hawaiian air flight and there you go. About 10 hours and your there. There is also a non-stop to San Francisco with a connecting flight direct to Lihue. Check the prices for your best deal

Surf Spots

Although there are fantastic spots on each coast of Kauai, the Spot is Hanalei on the North coast. Open directly to the Winter North Pacific swells, it catches every swell and can often be a few feet bigger than Oahu.

Hanalei Bay is one of the most well-known spots on the island, and there are many other spots in and around the bay. Hanalei itself is a long right point that breaks on the western side of the bay, breaking for up to 300 yards over lava reef. It is a fairly powerful wave with occasional barrel sections that ends with an inside bowl section in the middle of the bay.

Farther north, up and around the point from Hanalei, is a reef break right called Hideaways. Further inside the bay is an inconsistent break called Pine Trees, which needs a larger swell and a good sandbar set-up at the river mouth. Directly across Hanalei Bay from the main point is a fickle left reef break called Waikokos, which needs a large north swell and west wind.

Ha’Ena Bay (Cannons/Tunnels)

Heading west past Hanalei and Wainiha Bays, you’ll run into beautiful Ha’ena Beach, a goofy or regular footer’s dream in the winter. On the eastern side of the shallow bay is Tunnels, a right-hander breaking over shallow reef that on a proper North-East swell quickly makes you realize this wave has a very appropriate name. The paddle-out to Tunnels is a long one, but gets you warmed up for the waves waiting beyond. On the other side of the bay is Cannons, an equally hollow and shallow left that really gets going on a solid North-West swell. The paddle-out to Cannons isn’t as long as Tunnels. Like most surf spots in Kauai, Ha’ena is breathtaking — crystal clear water and jagged green mountains rising beyond the white sand beach. Ha’ena is, however, a popular surf spot, especially in winter, and visiting surfers should pay special attention to the local crew in the water at all times.

Anahola Bay

Anahola Bay is usually a mellow spot that is good for all levels (depending on swell size). Located on the northeastern lobe of the island, Anahola Beach is classic Kauai. The Kalalea Mountains rise to the west, the beach sand is white, and the waves break beyond a tranquil inside, out on the northern edge of the barrier reef. The inside is great for snorkeling and the grommets, with a fun bodyboarding and/or bodysurfing shorebreak near the mouth of Anahola River. The main wave, which breaks over reef and can be only for intermediate to experienced surfers when the waves are pumping, has a wide swell window from the North Pacific and favors south-to-west wind that is common during the passage of storm fronts, which are common in the winter months, when Anahola’s potential is at its best.

Polihale

Heading northwest on Kaumaualii Highway, just past Barking Sands beach and Mana Point, you’ll hit the end of the road at Polihale State Park. Before you will be seven miles of sweeping, golden beach that ends at the colossal feet of the Na Pali Coast, where the untouched wilds of Kauai’s western shore begin. Along Polihale beach there are numerous beachbreak set-ups to enjoy in both summer and winter. Unlike nearby Mana, Polihale picks up more swell from the North than the South Pacific, though a good South swell will wrap in just fine. Like Polihale, combo swells will yield the best surf, distributing fun peaks up and down the beach. Because Polihale is so sweeping and predominately sand, watch out for shifty surf and strong currents during larger swell events. If you’re on Kauai, whether there is surf or not, you don’t want to miss Polihale State Park — it’ll mesmerize you.

Pakala 

Pakalas is a long left that barrels as it wraps around the point on the south side of the bay. It is fast, powerful and best on an overhead swell. The lower the tide, the hollower Pakalas gets, but exercise caution because the bottom is coral reef. On weaker swells, Pakalas is far less hollow and a mellower surfing experience overall. Checking Pakalas is a bit tricky, as you can’t easily see it from the road. Follow the cars parked along the side of the road.

There are many other surf spots littered all along the coast of Kauai. One of my favorites was Majors Bay. I heard about it from a local who said it was best on a North-West when it was big. After driving all over the Western side of the island, we could see the surf but couldn’t figure out how to get to it. Barking Sands Naval Base stands along a larger area blocking access to the Surf. After going crazy, we finally stopped a carload of locals and asked them, How do we get to the Surf?

They told us you just go up to the main gate and tell the heavily armed military guards you want to go surfing……….. Crazy! They just give you a pass and let you on to a nuclear missile base. Take the trip, it’s definitely a great wave and experience!