Category: Travel Articles

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NICARAGUA

 

Friendly Faces, Beaconing Breezes and Voluminous Volcanos.

The political history of Nicaragua along with it’s many natural disasters have made traveling to this Central American Country a curse to many potential visitors. Unfortunately, positive news about Nicaragua is rarely heard, making you wonder if anything has changed within the course of time. Well plenty has changed since the time of the Sandinistas. Nicaragua is in it’s second decade of stable democracy and combined with less investment in military and more investment in education and health gives hope to other developing countries.

When to Go
The Pacific coast of Nicaragua has a plethora of different point breaks and beach breaks that work all year long. The best time to be there is spring and fall. The waves are best during the summer which begins the rainy season. This can be an ugly muddy time to get around as any Central American traveler will tell you.

The Surf
The best thing about the surf in Nicaragua is Lake Nicaragua. What??? A Lake? Yes, this magical lake which sits in the lower middle of the country is so big it regenerates the trade-winds from the Caribbean and creates perfect offshore winds all year long. It also has a massive volcano in the middle called Concepción. The winds work pretty much all day long unlike Costa Rica where you have to get up super early to have a fun session. This is important to the hung-over surfer who mainly surfs in the afternoons. An added bonus to the constant offshore breeze is the absences of annoying bugs which can ruin a trip if not careful.

Getting Around
Managua is the capital and where you mainly fly in from the States. The airport is pretty tiny and the rental car companies will try to scam you. Make sure you have an agreement with a rental company before you arrive as the prices jumps substantially when trying to make arrangements on the spot. Managua is a real tricky city because there are no street signs. Directions are all made based on landmarks which makes it close to impossible to navigate for newcomers. It may be a good idea to have a GPS or hire someone to get you going in the right direction. The roads in the cities and the Pan-American Highway are pretty good. Once you make it to the coastal area you’re going to wish you rented the bad ass 4 Wheel Drive Toyota Hilux. Even though it’s not necessary to have a 4WD during the dry season it does help.

The People
The people of Nicaragua are the most approachable people in the world. They are super happy to have people from all over the world visiting their country. Not many people speak English so having a decent Spanish vocabulary will help tremendously. They’re also very modern and all have cell phones which is pretty amazing for a developing country. The majority of the country is Catholic which you notice when visiting the cities. Many beautiful churches and cathedrals work their way into the cityscapes. Especially in Grandada which is an old colonial city that makes you feel as if your in 16th century Spain.

Where to Stay
Rivas County is where much of the action is in Nicaragua. It sits in the southern part of the country near Lake Nicaragua. Finding a place to stay near the surf is pretty easy and not too expensive. Popoyo is the backpacker’s nugget. It offers cheap places to stay and a pretty vibrant local cuisine. The wave there is one of the best in the country and breaks at all tides. You can also get to other breaks near by with very little hassle. Further south is Rancho Santana which has much nicer places. It has a very elegant restaurant, a few pools and access to wifi. Santana is the beach break many locals like to frequent. It usually breaks best at mid-tide. A bit further south is Playa Iguana which is similar to Rancho Santana and offers some really nice places to rent. Here is where you find Panga Drops and Colorados. These two waves are really fun and can get you tubed all day long. Even further south is Gigante and San Juan del Sur. There are many different breaks in this area and offer more city flavor and wide variety of places to rent.

Check Out
wanderlust-online.com at Rancho Santana

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TORTOLA, BVI

If you’ve ever seen a pirate movie, or dreamed of an idyllic castaway surf locale, then you’ve probably seen or envisioned a setting very much like the BVI’s. Lush rolling green hills cradling bright white fine sand beaches fronting a turquoise blue surf zone running azure to the horizon. To say that the BVI’s are something out of a dream is not a stretch, and when the waves are on it’s hard to find a better place to be a surfer. The thing is, that like in most parts of the Caribbean, the waves are not as consistent as many places around the globe, and these islands in particular because of their orientation need a big swell to start frothing. And the other thing is that everything in the BVI’s comes at a price, and like the hills in these here parts, that price can often be steep. But don’t fret there, pirate, there are still ways to make an affordable trip here for a good swell. Just be prepared for some flatness if you simply choose a week or two during the winter and set up camp in this region.

–Steve Fitzpatrick

Crowds
Well… yes and no. The more popular beaks in the BVI’s have their full cadre of locals and will be packed on most good days. Use common sense and make way for locals of all ages, regardless of what they’re riding. Chances are they’ve been surfing there since way before you were born, so let them have the waves they want as they are in their backyard. Early and late in the season, however, you can find yourself surfing alone.

Hazards
Like most places in the Caribbean the waves here break over coral reefs, and some of them are quite shallow. Other than the usual fire coral, sea urchins, and a blazing tropical sun, the only thing to be worried about is staying on the left hand side of the road and on top of the very steep and often pot-holed paved roadways of these islands. Crime is almost non-existent, and the hardest part of any excursion might just be paying the bill.

The Seasons

Summer
This is the best time to stay far away from the BVI’s if you’re a surfer. Swells are few and far between, and if you thought life was slow here in the winter, you ain’t seen nothin’ yet. But it is an excellent time to be sailing, fishing, diving, or snorkeling the incredibly clear water in this part of the world.

Fall
Now is when the BVI’s start brewing the magic potion with the occasional hurricane or tropical storm, and then the regular cold fronts coming off the east coast. Depending on the season, this can be the best part of the year or sometimes the worst part of the season, but there are usually a couple swell events to mark the passing of summer to be sure. A good season will see October ring in the winter with weekly NW and N swells of varying intensity and size.

Winter
This is the most consistent time for surf in the BVI’s, but it can sometimes be plagued by N and NE trade winds that make most lineups windblown. That’s not to say that early morning sessions aren’t to be had with overhead swell in abundance, but you mightn’t get any of those days when conditions are favorable all day long.

Spring
Another great time of year to be here if it’s a good season, and a bit of flat city if the weather up north has been unusually warm and dry. Spring is a time when there is still potential for powerful cold fronts to push far down the eastern seaboard resulting in solid groundswell and sometimes SE wind flows. When those two variables come together you’re in for a treat because there will be waves all over the exposed coasts here, and few people who want much to do with them.

Directions
The British Virgin Islands are an overseas territory of the United Kingdom. Therefore, you’ll need a passport for assured entry. Usually, flights from most major US and European cities will stop in San Juan, Puerto Rico first, before boarding the puddle jumper over to the smaller islands. Driving is on the left, and no roads are wider than two lanes. In other words, leave the lead foot at home; this is a different pace of life.

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NAMOTU, FIJI

Namotu

Namotu Island is a South Pacific fantasy that is considered world class for surfing, diving, sailboarding, kite surfing, fishing and standup paddle boarding but what really sets Namotu apart is the service and atmosphere. No matter what activity you may be interested in, Namotu’s attentive “can do” staff are there to make it happen on your schedule. Boat transfers go where you want, when you want, and if you want a round of golf, no problem! Helicopter tour? No problem! Scuba diving? No problem! Feel free to do nothing at all but relax in the shade with an icy cocktail, enjoy the company of friends, or rest under the beach palapa in the solitude that only a private island accommodation can deliver.

If you are interested in some pre-trip physical conditioning to make the most out of your surf travel experience, check out Andrew Blake and his various training programs designed for Namotu. Andrew has spent months of time training guests while on island, and has now made his programs available to guests prior to travel.

What looks to be barely a speck of sand in the middle of the Pacific Ocean is actually a five-acre piece of island heaven.

Namotu has three private bures, two larger VIP bures, and it’s very own “Luv Shack” all built in the classic Fijian fashion: high ceilings, hardwoods, air conditioning and lots of windows and glass to regulate the sea breezes.

Namotu also offers a house, commonly referred to as “the Villa” featuring marble floors, living room, bar, and it’s very own pool perfect for a family, a small group of friends, or sharing with other guests on the island. The master bedroom of the house, or Villa Suite, is the best room on the island. The house can also accommodate 2 other couples or 4 single men in two bedrooms called the “Blue” room and “Pink” room; both rooms share the same bathroom

Standard number of guests per week is 25.

The Surf

The below reefs are all easily accessible by the Namotu boats, giving guests a greater variety of options.

SWIMMING POOLS

If you’re thinking “playful” and “warm” and “fun” then you have the right impression of Swimming Pools, a reef-break right which has just enough of the power of a tropical wave coming up out of the deep ocean. Popular with both short boarders and longboarders, Swimming Pools has the speed, power and length to do draw any lines you choose.

NAMOTU LEFT

What Restaurants is to Tavarua, Namotu Left is to Namotu – a world-class reef break that’s more forgiving than its more famous neighbor Cloudbreak. From 6 to 15 feet, Namotu Left can be the thrill of a lifetime, but from two to six foot the wave is a shortboard, fish, longboard or SUP paradise.

When the wind is going strong side shore, Namotu Left is as legendary in the sailboard and kitesurf world as Cloudbreak is in the surfing world.

WILKES PASS

About a mile northwest of Namotu Island, across the channel, Wilkes Pass is a powerful right barrel that breaks on the southern tip of a long barrier reef. Wilkes is a serious wave that will test the skill of any surfer, especially as it approaches the 10-foot mark. Access to all the surf breaks is by boat, with a boatman and radio on board in case of a broken board or an up-close-and-personal inspection tour of the Fijian reefs.

CLIMATE

The cooler dry season is from April through October and the warm, wetter and more humid season is from November to March. Air temperatures range from the mid 70’s to mid 80’s year round, with water temperatures hovering in the same range, year around

Fiji does receive rain year round but the wet season also corresponds with the South Pacific cyclone Season. Although it is rare to have a cyclone impact Fiji directly in any given year, it can happen, and does typically every 5+ years for a short period (3-5 days) of very intense and very bad weather.

The Fiji islands also have dry and wet sides similar to Hawaii; drier on the west and south, much more rain on the east and north. The properties WaterWays has relationships with are all located on the southwest or southern end of the island chain.

WIND

As with most of the South Pacific, the seasonal “trade” winds blow from the southeast across the Fiji Islands June through September. These winds can blow relatively strong for 5-10 days at a time, and then often back down for a week before continuing the on and off cycle. These trade winds may not be favorable at many breaks, but each location with which we work has some “fall back” plan in the event of unfavorable conditions.

During the wet season winds blow from the north, which is offshore for most breaks along the south coast. The shoulder months of March through May and October through early November receive light and variable winds producing many glassy days.

SWELL

The south swell window is generally from March through November while North swells are biggest and most consistent from December through February.

South Pacific does receive southern hemisphere swells year around and it is very rare for Fiji to receive a north ground swell out of season.

To sum it up: If you’re looking for the biggest surf, March through November is the go. Surfers looking for the cleanest conditions and the least crowded time of the year should visit during wet season from December through February.

Many people prefer to travel during shoulder months of March, April, May and September, October, November, hoping to get glassy conditions with early or late south swells.

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Ireland

Ireland, Eire, or the Emerald Isle has never been known to most as a high priority surf destination. Perhaps it’s thefact that it rains an average of 20 days per month. Or maybe it’s the fact that it lies at the same latitude as New Foundland, or that the water temperature never gets much warmer than the upper 50’s.

For me the reason I had never had dreams of Irish surf….. is simple…. No palm trees! Even though I’m nearly 100% of Irish descent, I live in New Jersey and when I go on a surf adventure I want to see turquoise colored water that I can surf in my baggies, and I want to see palm trees!

But after the stories told by my friends of their great experiences and adventures traveling to Ireland, I decided to look into an Irish surf trip a little more. After a little investigation I learned:

1. There are palm trees (Dingle Peninsula – County Kerry
2. There are literally hundreds of point breaks and rock reef breaks all over Ireland

3. It does rain a lot, but not nearly as much in August, September, and October which coincidently is smack in the middle of the Atlantic Hurricane Season.

As a result, I decided it was finally time for this Irish-American to visit the land of my ancestors. I spent my free time during my busy Summer season checking Irish surf club websites and reading the Stormriders Guide to Europe. Armed with a basic roadmap to the major breaks that I wanted to investigate I was off on September 11,2002.

After landing in Shannon in western Ireland and securing my rental car, I was off. Cars in Ireland by the way have the steering wheel on the right side of the car and you shift with your left hand. Oh yeah, you drive on the left too, on really narrow roads where everyone drives really fast.

There is surf on all four coasts, but the most consistent spots lie on the western coastline which is dotted with lots of cliffs and bays. I spent the next 10 days traveling the length of the Green Isle, and to put it bluntly, I had the time of my life…….. There’s surf everywhere in Ireland and when you’re not surfing there’s fantastic scenery, ancient castles, and for the evenings entertainment…… pubs!

Dingle Peninsula (County Kerry)

Located on the far SW coast of Ireland, besides being among the most beautiful locations boasts some great surf spots. It can be a bit difficult to locate the even more popular spots…… so do your home work!

Garywilliam Point – Located right at the point of Brandon Bay. It is a fast, hollow right that breaks over a rock reef. The spot isn’t marked. Follow the road to the end and look for the parked cars beside the pasture.

Mossies – A nice mellow rock reef break located a bit further into Brandon Bay from the point. There’s several peaks. Pick a spot. Mossies is very popular with longboarders and windsurfers.

Inch Reef – Irelands answer to J-Bay. On a good swell long lines will roll in along some rocky cliffs. Rides of 500+ yards are not uncommon! Lots of current. Pick your entry spot along the cliffs and jump in. World class wave! Located a little further along inside the bay is Inch strand. Inch is a sand bottom beach break that’s surfable on just about any swell. Best to the north near the cliffs.

The town of Dingle is located on the southern edge of the peninsula. It is a picturesque, sleepy fishing town with a population of 400. The truly interesting fact though is that there are 64 pubs in Dingle, one for every 6 residents!

When you come from Brandon Bay to Dingle be sure to go over Connor Pass. It’s a crazy single lane road that runs along the side of the mountains. The road is often shrouded in fog but you can occasionally get incredible glimpses of both Brandon and Dingle bays. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the crazy drivers!

County Clare

Further north following the coastline lies the wave rich areas near Lahinch. Lahinch is known as the first surf town in Ireland. It definitely has the feel of a surf town, with boards leaning in many doorways and wetsuits hanging everywhere to dry.

Doonberg Castle – located about 15 minutes south of Lahinch, Doonberg is a big wave spot located beneath the ruins of a castle. A good choice on a gnarly, big swell.


Cregg Beach – Located just to the south of Lahinch, a little further out on Liscannor Bay. Another rock reef that can deliver one of the longest lefts in Ireland.

Lahinch – located all the way inside on Liscannor Bay. There are several breaks located along about a ½ mile ofshoreline. Prior to my trip I was often told how uncrowded the surf was….. Not so in Lahinch. I pulled up to the beach and was all excited when I saw the fun looking head high surf rolling in, Only then did I notice the 50-70 guys in the water! Most are beginners though, many riding those plastic boards. The surf was a bit softer than it looked, but still really fun. The left, located at the southern end of town proved to be the most consistent and most powerful, long and rippable. I had so much fun in Lahinch that I came back again later in the trip.

Doolin Pt/Crab Island – located in the town of Doolin about a ½ hour north of Lahinch, Crab Island is one of the most famous waves in all of Ireland. The break is located at the southern end of Crab Island about a ½ mile paddle from Doolin Pier. The wave jacks up out of deep water producing incredibly hollow waves. Check your leash! Doolin Point is a fast wave that breaks all along the point. The wave does section though. There are several peaks all along the point. The point is best at lower tides.

The coastline along County Clare was the most beautiful and diverse that I found in all of Ireland. There are bays, points, nooks and crannies everywhere. Located just north of Lahinch are the world famous Cliffs of Mohrer. The cliffs rise straight up hundreds of feet right from the sea. It’s about a mile walk from the parking lot to reach the summit of the cliffs. Take the time…. It’s well worth the effort. The scenery is so beautiful it’s hard to describe.

Bundoran (County Donegal)

Bundoran is without doubt the best surf spot that I came across in Ireland. I’m sure all the other spots I visited go off, but while I was there, it was Bundoran.

The main break sits at the point of a rocky outcropping right in the middle of the bay. The wave produces a short snappy right and a much longer left that peels and barrels its way along a rocky shelf into the bay. The wave seemed to have the best shape at lower tides, but as the tide got higher the size jumped too, although the wave was a bit softer. By far the best surfers I came across in Ireland were in the Bundoran area. Maybe it was the hard rock shelf, but nearly everyone ripped.

Tullan Strand – Around the headland from Bundoran lies Tullan. It’s considered one of the best and most consistent beach break waves in all Ireland. There are lots of beginners at Tullan too, I saw surf schools and lots of softies each afternoon. All in all a really fun wave and a nice break from all those reefs and points (yeah sure!).

Rossnowlagh – Located about 15 minutes north of Bundoran, Rossnowlagh is located in yet another bay. The surf is sand bottomed beach break and generally smaller than Bundoran. Rossnowlagh is home to the largest surf club in Ireland, located in the Surfers Bar. Here along with other surfers and a pint you can check out surf memorabilia accumulated since the 60’s. The annual Irish Championships are held each October in Rossnowlagh.

Across the road from the Surfers Bar is a glass shop run by one of the first Irish National Surfing Champs. If you get a chance be sure to stop in and check the art. There are all kinds of surf related glass etchings and other pieces of art. He has a complete collection of every Irish Championships Contest poster (which he drew). Reproductions are for sale.

Bundoran is a slightly cheesy appearing Seaside Heights-type town. There’s an area with kid’s amusement rides and even an indoor swimming pool with lockers on the beach near the peak. Tourist shops abound the many little side streets. It seems that with lots of vacationers there in the summertime it could be pretty chaotic. Located along the main street coming into town is Fitzpatrick’s Surf Shop. Fitz’s is the center for surf info for the area and lots of local shots adorn the wall.

Lots of Americans have made the Bundoran area their homes. Notably the vibe in the water was a little more intense here than the other areas I visited. I wonder how much influence is caused by all the Yanks living locally.

I had many times prior to my trip heard how incredibly friendly the Irish people were. My experience was that generally when you travel you meet really great people and those not so great. Ireland really didn’t seem that much different. Most of the people we encountered were polite, but not overly friendly. Since many Americans have traveled to Ireland, it’s no longer a novelty to meet a Yank in the water. The one notably exception I encountered in the water was in Lahinch. While out surfing the left I saw a bigger set approaching. I began to paddle out alongside an older surfer riding about a 10 foot longboard. Coincidently, the longboarder had gotten a good many of the set waves. As we approached a beautiful overhead wave, I thought to myself, ” Damn, I’m screwed…..”. Just then he glanced over at me and yelled, “Go Boy-o, Go”. With that I quickly spun and caught an unreal 200 yard left. I later found out he was the owner of the local surf shop and one of the very first surfers in the area.

I know that I visited only a few of the many great surf spots in Ireland. There’s many other equally well known spots like Easky and Spanish Point and probably hundreds of other spots only known by the locals. While traveling along the coast I saw plenty of spots with great looking waves. But being alone, I wasn’t brave enough to venture out, so I settled to surf with others.

My advice…… go to Ireland. Bring a smile and a good attitude. Remember that you’re a visitor at someone’s local break. Be sure to look at all the incredible scenery and enjoy the pubs. And don’t forget to have a Guiness for me!

Don Tarrant

Irish Websites
Big G’s Surf Forecast

Surfing Ireland
Irish Surfing Assn
Irish Surf Info

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Virgin Islands

My Caribbean paradise is located in the Virgin Islands. Christopher Columbus discovered the Virgins on a trip in 1493. He named the island group after St Ursula and her 11,000 virgins. The Virgins, (US & British) are a group of about 100 islands and cays (pronounced keys). The largest and most well known islands are St Croix, St John, and St Thomas (US) and Tortola and Virgin Gorda (British).

To the north of the islands lie the vast expanses of the North Atlantic. During the Winter, cold fronts sweep off the east coast of the US and often turn into violent gales, which send swell pulses southward to the islands which lie comfortably away.

The Winter surf season can begin as early as September and occasionally last until May, but usually by the end of March the swells become less and less consistent. The Fall can also be an awesome time in the Caribbean. Glassy surf and no crowds are generally the rule on most islands. The trade winds, which dictate the wind patterns, are always from the east, but tend to be more northeast in Winter and southeast in Summer. The “Christmas Winds” generally arrive in December, bringing gustier conditions.

Unlike PR, the Virgin Islands are small in comparison, so they don’t nearly have the amount of coastline or breaks. The islands are very rugged and access to many of the best breaks can be difficult unless you have the luxury of a boat. The surf too can be a little fickle….. many of the islands can block a swell if the direction is not exactly perfect.
Crowds too have become an issue in recent years, especially on Tortola. Lots of Americans have transplanted there, designated themselves as “locals” and have ferociously taken over the breaks. But when a fresh swell arrives from the northwest and you awaken to lines stacked to the horizon and light offshore winds…… well I can’t think of a place on the entire planet that I’d rather be.

The most famous breaks in the region are on Tortola. Photos of the famous Cane Garden Bay and Apple Bay have appeared in nearly every surf mag found in the world. Cane Garden is without doubt one of the most famous and most talked about surf breaks in the entire Caribbean. Cane needs a north swell and really doesn’t even begin to show until the surf reaches about 6 feet or so, but it really begins to go off when the surf gets in the 8 – 10 foot range.

When Cane is on the prime take off spot is at the base of a sheer volcanic cliff……. A rock and boulder strewn beach is only about ten yards away. If you blow the take off, chances are you’ll wind up meeting that rock beach face to face. One of my friends ate it on a take off there, wound up on the beach and refuses to surf there again.

A fast walled section that’s full bore for about 50 yards follows the drop. The next section is fully rippable and provides a breather before the racetrack section. The end or racetrack section requires mach speed…… a high line helps too! If you don’t make it you’ll probably get an up close and personal view of the reef. If you do, you’ll get to whack it at the end bowl and kick out into the safety of the deeper water outside the boat dock. On a good day, rides of 200 yards are not all that uncommon! Over the years with the publicity Cane has gotten, it has really become incredibly crowded. An airport has opened on Beef Island in Tortola in the last few years. When a good swell is coming up, guys fly over from PR as well as boat loads from St John and St Thomas.

Last Winter I surfed there with 45 guys in the water and 5 boats in the channel. Surfers sat all along the break and didn’t hesitate to drop in on you if you didn’t look like you’d make it, or maybe even if you did. On the other hand I surfed Cane this Fall just as a swell was coming up with only one other guy out. It was so incredible I thought I’d have a nervous breakdown. But the truth is Cane Garden is very inconsistent. It usually only breaks a few times a year if you’re lucky.

Apple Bay is a completely different wave than Cane Garden even though it’s located only a couple miles to the west. Apple is lots of fun at waist to chest high and can get unreal when it’s overhead. Apple is what you envision when you think of the Caribbean……. turquoise colored water and paper thin walls. Long rides can be had there, but nothing like Cane Garden. The wave at Apple is much peakier. Because it does have more peaks, it handles the crowd much better than Cane Garden. You’ve got a much better chance of getting waves to yourself there, rights and lefts, fast and hollow.

The famous Bomba’s Shack is right on the beach at Apple Bay. I can’t think of a cooler place to have lunch and a beer, or just cool off and watch the surf. Bomba’s has a full moon party each month. In the old days they served a potent shroom tea, the parties were epic, nudity and mayhem were the rules of the day. Today it has become a full on tourist scene. Busloads of elderly tourists are trucked in and served watered down tea.

Lots of other islands in the Virgins are capable of producing good to great surf too. Lots of spots are known, many are not. There are some epic breaks you’ll hear only spoken of in whispers. There are beach breaks and reef breaks, points too. It’s all there. Unfortunately my life would be in jeopardy if I revealed any more than that.

The real downside of a trip to the Virgins is the cost. Compared to the cost of a surf trip to PR or the Dominican Republic, a surf trip here can be out of reach of most traveling surfers on a budget. If you go to Tortola, stay at Sebastians. It’s right on the beach at Apple Bay. Don’t expect luxury accommodations, but there is something to be said for being able to paddle out to the break – a hundred yards in front of your hotel.

I’ve had the opportunity to travel to many of the islands outside of the Virgin Islands too. The truth is, there’s surf nearly everywhere.The Caribbean is an incredibly terrific place. From the surf, to the beaches, to the many friendly people, it has something for nearly everyone at nearly every level of ability. All you need is a spirit of discovery and a plane ticket. Pick out an island and check it out. You’ll be sure to have experiences you’ll never forget.